Ponduru is a small village located in Srikakulam district of Andhra Pradesh state with a population of less than 20,000. It was awarded the GI tag for its hand spun, hand woven high quality fabric made from locally grown cotton varieties. This fabric is called Patnulu in the local language.
Let’s explore the journey of the famous Ponduru Khadi fabric.
Entire family is involved in the making of Ponduru Khadi fabric, and sarees. Pattushalis from Ponduru are known to weave Andhra khadi for generations together.
But why Khadi- As a parent you will give your children a clean and culturally bestowed fabric that holds national significance with its contribution in the Swadeshi Movement. You would make your children aware of its importance and make them wear clothes made of this khadi which is available to millions and which can be easily produced. Khadi was a national weapon to fight against mill made cloth.
During the British Raj, locally grown Indian Cotton varieties that were robust, short stapled and well suited for India’s climate, were exported in large quantities to England. Indigenous varieties like Hinganghat and Oomras, Bengal Cotton, Broach and Tinnevelly cotton varieties were most exported from India. It is a vast topic altogether, which we will cover in next articles though just giving glimpses here.
There were times during 1861 to 1865 during the American Civil War when 90% of cotton imported by Britain was from India due to the Union blockade that cut off the supply of American long stapled Cotton. British Raj not only forced Indian farmers to stop cultivating the local varieties, they pushed them to grow long stapled American upland varieties in regions of black soil like Deccan, Dharwad. In regions of Madras and Western India, the British attempted to cultivate Sea Island and Egyptian long stapled cotton. British economic policies fundamentally altered India’s agricultural and economic landscape. Rich cotton varieties from India were exported tariff free to Britain. This was used by textile mills there to manufacture cheap clothes that were again sold on Indian soil to its very own citizens at higher costs. That was a deliberate, forceful attempt which crippled Indian Handloom industry.
To be continued….
